Dorman 917-107 Exhaust Manifold Clamp Repair Compatible with Select Models (OE FIX)
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Dorman 917-107 Exhaust Manifold Clamp Repair Compatible with Select Models (OE FIX)

4.7/5
Product ID: 13018341
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🔧Complete kit
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Description

🚗 Fix it fast, drive it proud!

  • PRECISION FIT - Engineered for select GM and Isuzu models.
  • EXPERT BACKING - Trust in over a century of automotive expertise.
  • EFFORTLESS REPAIR - Seal the deal without the hassle of extraction!
  • ALL IN ONE SOLUTION - Includes everything you need for a secure fix.
  • EASY COMPATIBILITY CHECK - Input your vehicle details for guaranteed fit.

The Dorman 917-107 Exhaust Manifold Clamp Repair is a time-saving solution designed for select GM and Isuzu vehicles. This complete kit includes a clamp and fasteners, ensuring a secure repair without the need to extract broken studs. Backed by over a century of automotive expertise, this product guarantees a trustworthy fix tailored to your vehicle's specifications.

Specifications

BrandDorman
Item dimensions L x W x H3.5 x 4 x 1.5 inches
StyleModern
Item Weight16 ounces
UPC019495782513
Global Trade Identification Number00019495782513
ManufacturerDorman Products
Model917-107
Item Weight1 pounds
Product Dimensions3.5 x 4 x 1.5 inches
Country of OriginChina
Item model number917-107
Is Discontinued By ManufacturerNo
ExteriorPainted
Manufacturer Part Number917-107
OEM Part NumberSK917107; 11518860

Have a Question? See What Others Asked

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Reviews

4.7

All from verified purchases

M**E

Pain to install, but worth it in the end!

Let me start by saying this. I am a full time mechanic with access to lifts to work on my vehicles on my off time. I installed this bracket with use of said lift. And even that was not easy. I also have smaller hands, and I had trouble starting the damn bolts haha. The way I did it was this: after fiddle farting with the bolt for over 20 mins and my arm cramping I figured there had to be a better way. I stared at it for a good five mins before I got the game plan. Yes, I did remove the front driveshaft to give me a few extra inches but I just removed it from the front axle, not the t case which was fine, so I would say start there to give your arm the room to reach up to the spot. I then grabbed a smaller bolt and put that thru the top hole on the bracket and then put it into the hole in the cylinder head to kinda support the bracket so I can just get the bolt on the bottom to start. This is the tricky part. Since the bolt is just flat cut, you have to be dead buts straight when you thread it in. After about another 15 mins of trying I finally got it started. I snugged that bolt down just enough to hold the bracket still, lowered the truck and climbed ontop of the motor and reached down and removed my support bolt and threaded the top bolt in. Same scenario with the top bolt but since the bottom was already started, it wasn't as much of a fight. Once you get those ran down, I used a flex wrench and tightened them down nice and good. Then I put the top manifold bolt in, which was simple, and ran it down against the manifold, and boom, done. Started the truck and no more ticks. It is a great option vs 1500 to have the studs replaced and works fine. Super cheap solution if your willing to cuss, cramp and fight to get it done. Overall it was a easy install, but you have to put in some effort. Took me about 45 mins to install but I love to take my time. Hope this helps!

A**R

Perfect cheap and easy fix.

Not sure what everyone is complaining about with install... product worked perfectly and solved my problem, took all of about 10 min to install. (I am a technician by trade as well.) Install process is as follows-1.put a small screw or something to hold the top bolt hole in place while you install the bottom one. 2.Snug up the bottom bolt. 3 Remove whatever you had holding the top bolt hole and install top bolt. 4.Tighten down top bolt and install retaining bolt against manifold... you're done. I had a REAL bad exhaust leak on the back side of driver manifold. Not anymore!

C**Y

5.3l 4wd install tips

5.3l 4wd tahoe. Great part but incredibly difficult to install because of the lack of clearance. The following is what finally worked for me after hours of frustration. Be prepared to walk away and find your calm place several times. You are trying to thread 2 bolts that you can barely touch with your fingers tips into 2 holes you can't see in a place with no room for a socket or a wrench. Expect frequently dropped bolts and parts. You will have to work from the top and bottom and go back and forth many times. Best advice came from ernies review. Dropping the front driveshaft on a 4wd was best tip of all. Heres what I wound up doing. Jack up tahoe just enough my gut can fit underneath. Remove 4 11mm on front of drive shaft. Slide driveshaft back and let it hang. You don't need to remove it. I needed some wd40 and a prybar to break it loose from rust up front. You can now see the two bolt holes on the head that you can only feel from the top. Remove the heat shield! It's a pain and you'll only gain maybe a 1/4 inch of clearance but you'll need every bit of it. 3 10mm nuts hold the heat shield on. Two you can see and reach from the bottom. The third is hidden behind the steering column and you'll need to get it from up top. Now the hardest thing for me was trying to hold the part in place while trying to fish blindly for the bolt holes. The weight of the part makes it want to fall just when you think you are about to tread the bolt. To solve this I used smaller bolts as pegs to pin the bracket into the bolt holes. The 11mm ones from the driveshaft worked great. I used a magnetic pick up tool to hold the bracket in place while I pegged it with the smaller bolts. This way it was in place and the weight was supported so all I had to do was work one bolt at a time. I went up top and found I now had just enough clearance to get a thumb and finger on the top bolt. I took the peg bolt and threaded in the top bolt. I finger tightened it and went back underneath. With the bracket held in place it was much easier to start the lower bolt. I wound up using a 14mm socket, a wobble and about 18"s of 3/8 extensions to thread it in. You can do it with a wrench but expect to move it a 1/16th turn at a time. I snugged up both bolts with a wrench once they were all the way in. There is no clearance for a torque wrench and it's not needed anyway. These bolts are side loaded and firmly seated is enough. It was now easy to go up top and install the clamping bolt with tread locker. I hope something in this helps you. It's a good part and a great solution. I know how to pull the heads and the broken bolts. This was just as good. Best part is you can walk away at any point and still have a driveable vehicle. When pulling heads you are likely to break or snap something. If you don't have another vehicle you are then stranded. Good luck, take your time and trust me it will work....eventually :-)

Q**H

Great product, hard time.

Installation difficulty = 10/10Time too install, 1 hourFinal product, did great job.

F**E

Fix that rear bolt

Have an old GM 5.7 Typical broken rear manifold bolts. I use a welder to tag onto the end of the bolt and spin them out. Work most of the time. One this engine I just could not get a good bind the rearmost driver side bolt, broken off well below the head.This clamp went on fairly easy and is working great to keep the exhaust tight and sealed, until sometime in the distant future when I am prepared to pull the head.This is a temporary-permanent fix. ;)Note: it is easiest to install from the bottom, underneath the truck. Remove the O2 sensor, remove the front yoke of the driveshaft and slide aside, remove the firewall heat shield. You’ve then got plenty of room to finger the two bolts into the back of the head.

J**A

HOLY CR-P that was hard to install..BUT worth the effort!

I read a zillion reviews and watched several youtube videos on installing this I KNEW IT WAS A CHALLENGE...however... it was way harder than I had envisioned.On DAY 1..I tried to do it without help and wasted 4 VERY frustrating hours and some seriously scraped arms, fingers etc.On DAY 2.. I removed the front drive shaft from the front diff and moved it aside, no need to pull it from the transfer case and most importantly got help (my wife),, she worked from the top maneuvering the clamp so I could insert the bottom bolt (from underneath the truck), that took about 30 minutes.Once the first bolt was in place she used a stick to push the heat shield back as I swung the clamp) it was already on the lower bolt) and into position. That was another 30 minutes of painful contortions and then it was installed... they were installed and tightened from below... another NEAR IMPOSSIBLE task...I just tightened all I could manage with A 14MM BOX END RATCHETING WRENCH.Then up top, installed the tensioning bolt and was shocked to see it push the manifold in at least 1/4 inch, maybe more... LEAK SOLVED!There are references to torque values BUT there is NO WAY a torque wrench can fit on the bolts so just tightened the he-- out of the back ones as well as the tensioning bolt. Also no way to get anti-seize on the back bolts... since the truck is already 20 yrs old I suspect this repair will outlive it.

J**.

Great product

Was easy to install and fast shipping

K**Y

Awesome just awesome!

Whoever thought of this thing is a genius

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Vikram D.

The MOLLE sheath is of exceptional quality. Very happy with my purchase.

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Neha S.

Excellent communication throughout the order process. Product is perfect.

2 weeks ago

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TrustScore 4.5 | 7,300+ reviews

Sneha T.

Received my product in pristine condition. Great service overall.

1 month ago

Rajesh P.

Customer service was outstanding when I had questions about the product.

2 days ago

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