Denso234-4622 Downstream Oxygen Sensor with 12” Harness and 4-Terminal Square Connector

2009 Pontiac Vibe 2.4 L. I installed it yesterday, and it works fine so far. I'll update you if there are any issues. It was 1/4" shorter than the OEM, but I was still able to reach the electrical connector. If the old sensor comes out easily, it should take 30 minutes, mine did not come out easily.

My car is a 2009 Toyota RAV4 with a 2.5L 4-cylinder engine. I believe this Oxygen Sensor is a piece of Original Manufactured equipment (product #234-4622) because it fits perfectly and it looks the same as the one it replaced. The item itself is inexpensive but replacing it by myself was difficult. I had a really hard time unscrewing the original sensor out of the gas pipe due to a lack of space to rotate the ratchet. In addition, the connector was too high to reach with both hands from under the car, where the sensor is located. You would need one hand to jam a flathead screwdriver into the connector to release the hook, and the other hand to pull the wire out of the connector. There was not enough space for two hands to do this from under the car! Luckily I had my brother helped me out. He stood next to the car and reached down with one hand to take a screwdriver to release the wire from the connector, and I pulled the wire from under the car. After that, installing the new sensor was a much easier step.I also want to note: the error code that prompted me to replace this sensor was "Code: PO137, Define: O2 Sensor Circuit Low Voltage Bank 1 Sensor 2" I also replaced the Bank 1 Sensor 1 at the same time. Bank 1 Sensor 1 is located in the front of the engine and it is called the Air/Fuel Sensor, product # 234-9022. The reason I replaced both sensors was because I learned from a mechanic who told me: when Sensor 2 gives an error message, it is usually caused by the failing of sensor 1. When sensor 1 fails, too much or too little oxygen flow into the engine and such condition creates too much or too little oxygen leaving the engine which in turn causes sensor 2 to show an error to the computer. Therefore, to completely solve the problem, one should replace both sensors at the same time. That was what I did. As soon as I replaced both sensors, the error code went away. Besides, some online forums I visited have indicated that Oxygen sensors and Air/fuel sensors tend to last about 10 years. That's exactly how old my car is when the error code showed up.I learned about this repair routine from others on YouTube and other online forums, so I appreciate those people's videos and inputs. This DIY repair saved me at least $500 compared to having to leave the car at a repair shop or dealership. As such, I took the time to write this review in the hope that I'd paid my money-savings forward to someone who might be facing a similar problem.

Good product, comes with anti seize compound and instructions. My Camry has the 2.5 engine.Also used in this job.http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00390BS7C/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005NLQAHS/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=org.prowl.torque&hl=enI purchased a bluetooth OBD2 test module a while back. It allows my Android Smart phone to read the codes and clear them on any vehicle with the "Torque" app from the Android Playstore. The free version of Torque works great, I did purchase the full version since it saved me so much over the last year. My check engine light came on and when I performed a code scan it revealed a Heater Control Circuit Bank 1 Sensor 2 fault. I pressed web look up and it gave me the most common cause was the Oxygen Sensor #2 before the catalytic converter. I cleared the fault codes and they came right back. I looked for a match to the original oxygen sensor and researched over the net how much the dealer would charge parts and labor to do this job. The part was higher and so was the labor. I purchased the wrench that you can put a 3/8 extension into from either side on Amazon as well to break it free. The job went well. I did need a long breaker bar to break it free as they are in there pretty tight. I actually used a long 1/2 in breaker bar with a 1/2 to 3/8 in adapter. It comes with a small tube of anti seize compound so I didn't have to run to the store to buy that either. I used a small strait screwdriver to release the plastic mount that holds the electrical plug to the bracket. It took me about 30 minutes total to pull the old one out and install the new one. The fault code had to be cleared out with my code reader, but it hasn't come back.

Check engine light was showing codes for bad ECU and O2 sensor bank 2. Replaced the O2 sensor under the engine and both codes stopped.This sensor has pre installed anti seize on the threads and a crush washer. Uses a 22mm wrench. The connector will fit through the 22mm box end wrench, don’t bother with any other specialty tool.

Installed it and the check engine light went out. Yay!

The sensor wire lead was 1” short, but I did make it work on my 2006 4cylinder Camry.

Was a perfect fit for my 96 Toyota Avalon, bank 1 which is behind the engine.

El artículo vino abiertoFuera de su cajaY ahora tengo duda si es el correcto o tal vez no es la marca que yo compre