CK WorldwideCK T3327GTM LaYZr Tungsten Electrode 3/32" x 7", 10 pack

All-around, reliable and predictable quality and performance. These work really well for aluminum, mild steel and stainless steel. I've never welded titanium or any other metals so I've got nothing to say about that. But as far as tungsten goes, I can't tell the difference in performance with the ceriated, or with the lanthanated I've used. Now, I only need one kind. That's a win.

I have an older TIG welder, my home unit is an Alpa Tig (don't laugh, I'm poor).These tungstens have worked the best of everything else I have tried in this inverter machine and the welds really show the difference. I'm not a great welder. I'm not Aaron from 6061 or Jody from Welding Tips and Tricks, but I manage to make metal stick together reasonably well.Try these, I think you'll be impressed.

I just started learning to TIG weld a few weeks ago, so I'm not sure how valuable my review will be. Also, I'm using one of the more inexpensive DC only TIG machines.Up until now, I was using red coded 1/16" rods and was constantly having to resharpen them because they were burning away. This could have been operator error or I was just using too small of a rod for the work I was doing. Either way, the problem has pretty much disappeared when I switched to these 3/32" rods. With my lack of experience, the colors don't mean that much to me, and I based my choice on reviews on this site and others on the internet.So far, these rods are doing everything asked of them and are holding up much better than the 1/16" rods that I'll now save for thinner material. I'm very satisfied with them so far and plan to stick with them.

Very stable with a good arc.

Just sharpened and ready to go!! worked excellent on stainless !!!

I just did some experimenting with my 3/32" when I first got them to see if there was a noticeable difference to the ceriated and lanthanated that I use for steel and aluminum, respectively. Aluminum was first. I ground a nice sharp point for my inverter and ran a few 4043 beads on 1/4" 6061. The standout difference I noticed was after several rods, there was no splitting on the very tip, and very little ball formation on the point even running at 30% EP. No spitting either, though it was a short session and I don't get much from the La electrodes either. During the session, being an old shaky guy, I duffed the electrode a few times, but it shook it off like a champ and I kept on going. Then a fly flew into my arc and exploded carbon all over. same result, just kept going. End of session a small sphere had formed but little else and didn't have to re-sharpen once. Then on to steel. I put a nice slender point on the electrode and ran some beads on different thicknesses from .040 to 1/2" steel and some stainless. The several rods later, the point looked the same as when I started. It stayed clean and sharp. Further, to test the low amperage behavior, I welded some rod remnants together. My machine has a hard start, so it takes bit of control to stick an .040 rod together. All went well and I'm really considering putting my La and Ce on the shelf and just working with these. Really happy with them and will be getting some 1/16"

Exactly as described and very fast shipping

Despite the fact that they start well at low amperages and stay sharp, which ultimately makes them a fantastic replacement for Ceriated tungsten...the arc however is not crisp and direct at low amperages. It wanders. This is bad and it's just as problematic as ceriated tungsten which wanders as well. I have to do micro welding in which I place a weld between two items but this tungsten will arc jump onto the other materials or surfaces. It ruins my parts and makes me very angry. Lanthanated and thoriated tungsten do not do this. Layzr tungsten is not better than 2% lanthanated. It does stay very sharp and it's very visible so it's a quality product per se...but I will not buy these tungsten again. I bought these for $20 a pack, and about 2-3 months later, they are now up to $30. They are not worth it.